Since the “Blue” truck came with the parts to convert it from manual steering to power steering I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and do it. While this is basically a bolt on project it turned out to be a bit of work. It can be done in phases and this is the approach I decided to take. Over three days all of the brackets, bolts, hoses, belts, and other components were added to the 22R engine and ‘82 SR5 truck body/frame.

First step is to mount the pump and brackets to the motor. In my case there were three parts to the bracket assembly, the tension pulley, and finally the pump itself. The important thing here is to get all of the bolts from the donor and try to mark them so they can go back into the correct spots. The three brackets bolt together, and to the head and block. It’s probably as easy to mount the p/s bracket to the block first, then add the pulley bracket and other bracket to the assembly as you go. Just leave the bolts somewhat loose until everything is assembled; then tighten all the bolts at once. Finally mount the pump to the brackets. Just remember to use the short bolt under the pulley. In my case the pulley was already pulled from the pump, but I don’t think this is necessary. Also mount the idler/tension pulley to the bracket on the head. And now is good time to mount the extra pulley to the crankshaft pulley with four bolts.

Next step is to mount the oil cooler tube and reservoir to the body. The holes for the oil cooler are there, but the two nuts are not spot welded to the body. Use two metric nuts to hold the cooler in place or steal the square nuts from the donor and spot weld onto the sheet metal. For the reservoir the holes are not there; nor any markings. Using good judgment try to get the reservoir in place and drill three holes into the inner fender wall. You will need to take off the drivers side fender for this job. Again use three metric nuts to mount the reservoir or steal the square nuts from the donor and spot weld on.

Up until now it’s possible to drive the truck while the conversion takes place. Now it is time to commit. The next step is to remove the pitman arm, disconnect the steering shaft, and remove the manual steering box from the frame. I find it is necessary to separate the steering box from the frame bracket, then remove the bracket first in order to provide clearance to slide the steering box out between the frame and inner fender wall. Now slide the p/s box and bracket into position. I found it was necessary to attach the steering shaft to the box before bolting it to the frame. Now re-attach the pitman arm. Next attach the hoses to the pump, reservoir, and cooler tubes using the original hardware. Finally add the belt and tension according to specs.

Fill the reservoir with Dextron AT fluid. Double check everything and start the motor. Move the steering from lock to lock several times to try to work out the air from the lines. Shut off the motor and check the fluid level. Start again and work the steering back and forth until the “whine” subsides. Now it is time for a test drive. After driving a straight distance remove the steering wheel and realign so it is centered.

All in all it took about three days to get it done. I did take the time to sandblast and paint all of the parts black before assembling them on the truck. Besides looking much better it got rid of any rust. I also checked all of the hoses and belt for damage before installing. The result is a nice clean original looking installation with smooth easy steering. While not totally necessary for a truck with 9.5×30x15 size tires, it does provide a nice compliment to the other “luxurious” options that a SR5 truck commonly has. It’s a good project, but it’s key to make sure to get all of the parts and hardware from the donor truck; it greatly simplifies the installation.

Find power steering parts on Ebay

Let’s face it- even with its infamous reliability, your Toyota truck will require repair and maintenance from time to time. Many of the first gen and previous model trucks now have reached antique status. Its always better to work on your Toyota inside a nice warm, dry, secure garage. Many home garages now have an air compressor, tool box full of wrenches, and even a wire feed welder. More and more enthusiasts are equipping the workspace with a new or used automotive hoist. As the economy worsens, many automotive based companies are closing their doors- and liquidating their assets.  Keeping a watchful eye on Ebay, Craigslist, and the rest of the Internet can net a hoist at a fraction of the cost of buying a new one. After many years of searching, I was able to realize just such an opportunity. (more…)